Time to take our first step into Japanese territory with the much-hyped Nissin Raoh Artificial Tonkotsu, the self-proclaimed “king of ramen.” While most people know Nissin for their bargain-basement Cup Noodle and Top Ramen, the Raoh line is their premium noodle line here in the US. At $2.69 a pack from Wegman’s at the time I bought this (and about the same online), this one positions itself above your average grocery store find.
Read more: Noodle Journey Episode 8: Nissin Raoh Artificial Tonkotsu RamenThere were once technically two versions floating around: one labeled “Artificial Tonkotsu” (the one reviewed here), and another called “Umami Tonkotsu.” Based on the ingredient lists, they seem to be the same product under different packaging, possibly for different regions or just a quiet rebrand. After this review was filmed, I never saw the “Umami Tonkotsu” variety again, so I believe those have been gone since early 2022.
Despite the “tonkotsu” name, this is a vegetarian broth with no pork products. Inside the package, you get a round non-fried noodle block, a dry seasoning pouch, and a liquid oil packet. The seasoning includes ginger flakes, green onion, and a powdered mix of salt and spices. If you’re watching your sodium, brace yourself, because this clocks in at a hefty 2070mg, or 90% of your daily limit.
Noodles:
These are pleasantly chewy and hold up well to the broth. They don’t quite reach the top tier, but they’re solid and satisfying. Easily the best part of this bowl.
• 7/10
Spiciness:
There’s no chili here. The only kick comes from ginger and garlic, which don’t really qualify as heat, although if you’re really sensitive to zesty flavors, you may get a tingle from this.
• 1/10
Overall:
The broth is where this one stumbles for me. It smells artificial right out of the packet, and there’s a yeasty funk that mixes with the sesame flavor and never quite goes away. The flavor is aggressively salty, and while the garlic and ginger are doing their best, they can’t mask the artificial taste. This doesn’t resemble a real tonkotsu broth in any meaningful way, and frankly, it’s disappointing given the hype around the Raoh line. That said, the noodles themselves are good enough that I’m curious to try the other Raoh flavors in hopes they’re paired with a better broth.
• 5/10
If you’re curious, it might be worth trying once, just don’t expect it to live up to the reputation. A lot of people really like this flavor, but I’m not one of them.
Notes since filming: I really hated giving this one a medium overall score, but for me, it was largely an issue of the yeast extract used to approximate pork flavor in this. This is not the only time I’ve come across something like this that set my tastebuds off, but it was definitely the first. Since filming, I recommend this one with the caveat that I personally find the artificial flavor to be overwhelming, but that a lot of people who aren’t me don’t have any issue with it. Every once in a while, someone on Reddit asks, “Why does Raoh Tonkotsu have this weird stink to it?” and so I know I’m not the only one whose tastebuds are wired like this. But if you don’t have an issue with yeast, from a broth-consistency and noodle-quality perspective, this is one of the better tonkotsu varieties you will find in the US. It’s just not for me.
